NHMU exhibit demonstrates clearly Utah’s passion for making, eating great chocolate

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One of the best indicators of just how enthusiasm for fine chocolate has grown in Utah in less than a decade is the response to the chocolate exhibit at the Natural History Museum of Utah in Salt Lake City.

Chocolate in Utah
Chocolate’s connection to Utah spans many hundreds of years.

It’s not uncommon for the exhibit, which chronicles neatly the long cultural and anthropological history of chocolate up to and including most recent developments, to draw more than 2,500 visitors on weekend days, according to estimates provided by NHMU staff members. And, the most recent two-day chocolate festival at the museum proved to be equally popular, especially in connecting visitors to some of the best-known craft chocolate makers in Utah who are developing international reputations in the industry.

Among those featured was Scott Querry from Solstice Chocolate, one of the newer entries in the market. Single origin bars featuring Madagascar Sambirano, Bolivias Palos Blancos, and Canoaba cocoa beans from Venezuela along with a Wasatch bar featuring blends of beans from Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, and Ecuador were featured. As with Art Pollard of the Orem-based Amano chocolate maker and others, Querry is part of a growing movement of makers who have cultivated profiles of production and ethical responsibility that reward consumers as well as farmers and campesinos.

Conscious of the challenge of sustaining integrity from bean to bar, Querry, like his colleagues,  is particularly attentive to the connection between science and farmers especially in the agricultural processes of cultivation, fermentation and drying of beans, especially in preserving and cultivating heirloom crops. Take the Canoabo bar, for example. As Querry explained in an email, “Canoabo is an origin that was reintroduced in the last decade. It is harvested in a traditional manner. Most of the differences come in the fermentation process. The farmer, Rodrigo, uses many modern techniques that go against the conventional wisdom concerning post-harvest handling. A very complex cacao is the result. The Barlavento coast [in northeastern Venezuela] climate is ideal for this new way of doing things. I hope I can do justice to his hard work when it comes to this chocolate.”

Querry also is looking at varieties that are just appearing on the radar for their potential, including beans from Bundibugyo in western Uganda. Unlike the typical forestero bean found in most African farms, the beans in this Ugandan co-op represent a higher grade of trinitario with hints of peach and apricot tones.

Amano Dark Morobe
New Guinea beans, just as those featured in Amano’s Dark Morobe Chocolate Bar
Chocolet Meyer lemon
The Meyer Lemon confection, created by Ruth Kendrick, Chocolot

At Amano, Pollard epitomizes just how much the artisan chocolate world has changed and expanded so much in less than a decade. Visitors to the festival were able to sample some of the most successful and highly prized bars including the Guayas bar, which features the Nacional bean exclusively cultivated in Ecuador. Some of the smoky notes along with hints of tropical fruit such as green banana and blackberry and a beautifully controlled profile of slightly acidic taste make this bar extremely versatile. Amano’s chocolate made its presence known in other products featured at the festival including Amour’s raspberry rose chocolate spread and Butcher’s Bunches products, both Utah enterprises.

Versatile entrepreneurship characterizes Utah’s craft chocolate industries and one of the prominent examples is Eric Durtschi’s Crio Bru, a business which started in a Sandy, Utah warehouse barely four years ago and has now grown to a rapidly expanding enterprise with 12 full-time employees in a Linden, Utah plant and with products reaching more than 1,000 retail outlets. Durtschi adds the number is expected to reach 3,000 later this year.

Durtschi’s enterprise has helped to focus attention on one of the oldest chocolate preparations, a xocoatl or ka’kao drink that originated among the Mayans and was lost during colonial times. One sample incudes the Crio Bru Maya beverage, which can be readily brewed in a traditional coffeemaker or French press, and which has a smooth, comfortable feel of cinnamon and pepper.

Solstice Chocolate Canoabo
Solstice Chocolate bar featuring Canoabo beans from northeastern Venezuela

For vegans, A. J. Wentworth at the Utah-based The Chocolate Conspiracy continues to improve the raw chocolate bar, which does not involve roasting or the conching process, which many craft chocolate makers use to remove tannins and round out the aromatic profiles before the chocolate is tempered and allows the cocoa butter to crystallize. By avoiding conching, which can be a process of up to three days for some craft chocolate makers, Wentworth is able to maintain a bar that is more textured and a bit more acidic in taste. Wentworth is able to control the bitterness level because he uses beans that typically have lower levels of acidity than in other varieties. Honey also is used in the bar production process.

Festival visitors also were able to sample different confections featuring well-known brands of high quality chocolate. Among the most interesting offerings were by Ruth Kendrick at Chocolot. Her Meyer Lemon confection had a naturally citrus silkiness, as it is made with E. Guittard’s 35 percent cocoa butter white chocolate. For Aztec Spice, among one of her best sellers, she uses E. Guittard’s 61 percent chocolate bar.

Of course, the festival would not have been complete without the presence of Tony Caputo’s Market and Deli, which boasts one of the nation’s most extensive collections of fine chocolate bars and confections, ranging from Amedei to Ritual Chocolate [both featured at high-profile annual chocolate events at the store] and to hundreds of different preparations from makers throughout the United States and around the world.  Caputo’s education classes and chocolate events also have done much to demonstrate why and how the process of making chocolate distinguishes one producer from another, even if both have access to top-quality beans. The misconception about chocolate being easy to make is being dispelled by the talents and efforts of chocolate makers and Caputo’s has been effective in sharing knowledge  and how many makers operate with the precise minds of scientists in a laboratory.

Caputo's chocolate
Just a hint of the world-class selection of chocolates at Caputo’s Market

The NHMU exhibit, which continues to June 1, underscores just how much the fine chocolate industry has changed within the last 25 years. Indeed, the history portrayed in the exhibit is not lost, as a new generation of chocolate makers acknowledge that consumers can enjoy an immensely pleasing product with  memorable flavors and healthful culinary benefits that rely on specific, known sources of high-quality cacao without the use of preservatives or additives. Likewise, the business model is meant to take the erroneous, imprecise, and impersonal contexts out of terms such as “fair trade,” “rainforest alliance,” “organic,” “certified,” and “single estate.” Like international colleagues such as Italy’s pioneer Amedei, Utah chocolate makers clearly work toward the goal where farmers earn higher prices for their product and other benefits that include knowledge sharing with agronomists and industry support.

For more information about the NHMU chocolate exhibit, see http://nhmu.utah.edu/chocolate.

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Les Roka
I am a native of Toledo, Ohio, having received my Ph.D. in journalism and mass communication from Ohio University's Scripps School of Journalism in 2002. In addition to teaching at Utah State University and the University of Utah, I have worked extensively in public relations for a variety of organizations including a major metropolitan university, college of osteopathic medicine, and community college. When it comes to intellectual curiosity, I venture into as many areas as possible, whether it’s about music criticism, the history of journalism, the practice of public relations in a Web 2.0 world and the soon-to-arrive Web 3.0 landscape, or how public debates are formed about many issues especially in the political arena. As a Salt Lake City resident, I currently write and edit a blog called The Selective Echo that provides an entertaining, informative, and provocative look at Salt Lake City and its cosmopolitan best. I also have been the U.S. editorial advisor for an online publication Art Design Publicity based in The Netherlands. And, I use social media tools such as Twitter for blogging, networking with journalists and experts, and staying current on the latest trends in culture and news. I also have been a regular monthly contributor to a Utah business magazine, and I have recently conducted a variety of editing projects involving authors and researchers throughout the country and the world, including Dubai, Saudi Arabia, Canada, Lebanon, Cyprus, the United Kingdom, France, and Japan. I’m also a classically trained musician who spent more than 15 years in a string quartet, being involved in more than 400 performances.

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